Here are the three sections to today’s ride: each was a separate gpx file from the francevelotourisme.com website, which breaks its routes into 15-30km chunks. These are then uploaded to the Komoot app which then provides the voice and map for route finding.

A day of beautiful weather, beginning with a misty ride down to the Loire from our Airbnb which was on the hill behind Villandry chateau. It was also pretty chilly to start with – temperatures then built through the day to about 30 when we arrived in Amboise mid-afternoon.

Today’s route took us 45km further up the Loire and included a crossing of the city of Tours.

The run in to Tours was through low lying farmland alongside the Loire. The Loire is said to be a “wild” river, prone to dramatic floods and summer droughts. It’s contained to an extent by levees (high banks often topped with roads) built on either side, but the river still has about half a mile width in which to express itself.

The river we have encountered is running in random channels divided by sand and shingle bankings. Even through the city of Tours, the river is split with islands and banks.

The latter stages of the approach to Tours were well away from the Loire through parkland with a golf course, lakes, winding tarmac paths and what looked like student accommodation.

Tours is a big, modern city bustling with students, cyclists, scooter riders and trams. We encountered a small student sit-down protest blocking one of the main streets.

This small bunch has attracted the attentions of an equal number of heavily armed and armoured riot police, though there was nothing happening as we passed by as the two groups were about 100m apart.

We also passed Tours’ stunning cathedral which Julie and I last visited in 1996.

Lunch was eaten by the river just east of the city in a small country park. We had to sit on a log as there’s little or no tourist infrastructure close to the river. Winter floods carry away anything not made out of concrete and bolted to rock.

The final run into Amboise took us away from the river and through the vineyards on the surrounding hills, where the harvest was taking place. Although tractors follow the pickers to collect the grapes, this still seems to be a very manual task.

We were feeling the heat by this point, so the pickers must have been finding things tough.

We finally rolled into Amboise at 4pm and headed for our latest Airbnb. We intend to stay in Amboise for a couple of days. We cooked pasta bolognaise and then popped out for a drink at a bar under the walls of the chateau.

Airbnb review: our previous Airbnb in Villandry was another winner. Built in an old barn, it featured exposed beams and rustic details. But it was also comfortable and modern.

The main bedroom and bathroom both featured low beams, exposed vertical supports, sloping ceilings, low doorframes and single steps. Very attractive, atmospheric and probably building regulations compliant. But a midnight foray to the “facilities” required levels of agility and awareness that are hard to summon straight from a deep slumber.

Bird report – another non-bird. Common lizards are a treat for any wildlife enthusiast and although occasionally seen in the Pennines, down in mid-France they are very common. Though hard to spot. Of course I jammed on my brakes when I saw one on the riverside trail. Naturally Julie then ran into the back of me. All my fault – and not the first time my interest in the natural world has resulted in a bike accident. Happily there were no injuries to man or lizard.

Julie adds: I couldn’t miss the opportunity to revisit Tours cathedral. My memory didn’t disappoint. It is truly magnificent.

This is the organ, newly renovated when we visited in 1996.

At this point in the journey the cycling had gone smoothly but with legs and brains starting to fatigue I had a near miss with a fast riding Frenchman barrelling down a narrow path. A reminder to concentrate fully! Then at low speed I ran into the back of Phil when he stopped suddenly on sighting a lizard in the undergrowth! Fortunately I just bounced back off his rear tyre!!

This was the most tiring day yet compounded by hot weather from midday onwards.