Day 1: Friday 27 February 2026

Flight from Manchester to Seville with Ryanair. We arrived mid-evening and got a bus into the city (20 minutes), before walking a couple of blocks to our AirBnb apartment. We ended the day with Tapas at the El Nino Del Flore bar, literally just around the corner from where we were staying. Although we didn’t plan it that way, we effectively ordered battered fish (and prawns) and chips. Plus a reviving glass of the local beer.

Day 2: Saturday

We began by exploring the local area, up to the Setas attraction, winding down narrow streets and getting our first real taste f the city, which was still largely asleep. We picked up breakfast and other provisions from the local MAS supermarket.

We then activated our Sevici cycle accounts and picked up bikes from the local rack and rode down to the Cathedral/Alcazar area, stopping to watch an impromptu flamenco performance in a small park on the way. We then walked around the main tourist centre of the city and came across a number of brass bands assembling for, what we learned later, was Andalucia day celebrations. We had lunch by the river/Triana Bridge.

We returned the the apartment for lunch and our host messaged up to say that there was a major Andaluchia Day parade passing close by in the little while. We joined the throngs watching this colourful reencatment of King Alfonso’s trip into town with his bride, Isobela. Lots of people in historical dress, with music and drumming.

We ended the afternoon with a beer at a small cafe close to the Setas and decided to stay for something to eat as well.

Day 3 Sunday

We began the day by riding bikes to the Macarena gate, a decorated arch in the northern city wall, next to a very impressive church (Basílica de la Macarena), which was filling up ahead of the morning service.

We then walked to the nearby Torre (Towe) de los Perdigones, which was originally part of a factory.

A cycle through the city took us to the Museo de Bellas Artes. Outside was an extensive and mpressive art market, all produced by local artists. A walk round the museum itself followed, with an extensive exhibition of Spanish art, especially from the 17th Century. Much of the art was by Murillo, and Zurbaran, with many other artists also on show. Subjects were religious, military, important figures and Seville itself. The museum building was equally impressive.

A trip over the Triana bridge took us to the Triana Market, which was actually largely closed, so we ate a picnic of food we’d brought with us, before adjourning to a local cafe – La tarta de la madre Cris – which provided us with a cheesecake, coconut cake and freshly squeezed orange juice.

Phil then went for arun along the river and encountered Seville fans travelling in to the football stadium ahead of a match – lots of green and white and scooters and horns.

Julie had a walk round to scope out the flamenco shows and book us into the Museo de Flamenco for a mid-evening show.

We walked to the show, stopping for beer at the La Bodega, then went on to the nearby Catalina bar/restaurant in the Alfalfa plaza. We had various dishes including tortillia.

The flamenco show was an hour and an intense experience. We were seated right next to the stage and were able to watch the singing, guitar playing and the dancing at very close quarters. The sound – and the volume – was incredible, with castanets thrown in for good measure. Three dancers – one man and two women – were accompanied by two singers and a guitar player.

Day 4 – Monday

A trip to the Alcazar (10.30) tickets took up the morning, exploring this extensive range of buildings and gardens, in relatively hot conditions. It was busy and there was a huge amount to take in, particularly the moorish decorations.

After lunch we returned to the main tourist area for a walk around the huge Plaza de Espania, a monumental park and crescent of buildings built for the 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.

Day 5 – Tuesday

The Setas (parasol) was our first stop of the morning. It’s hard to describe this unique “monument” made from wood and totally dominating one of Seville’s biggest squares. We travelled up in a lift and explored the walkways that wind around its upper reaches. The views all around were magnificent, especially of the cahtedral and the nearby suspension bridge. Seville has very few high-rise buildings, which helps with the views.

We then wandered north into the Feria district, which is full of smaller shops, cafes and interesting alleys. Unfortunately lunch – hummus and ham on bread – disagreed with Julie who returned to our apartment to recover. Phil popped out for another cycle to river and run along the banks. A quiet evening in ensued.

Day 6 – Wednesday

We travelled out of the city for a day exploring the Donana National Park with a 4×4 tour run by a company called Naturanda. We were guided by the knowledgeable Ramon and joined on the trip by an elderly chap from Canada, a young Polish woman and two young women from the USA.

Highlights included seeing white storks nesting, a wild boar family, purple magpies, glossy ibis. we explored a range of habitats, including wetlands, forest and dune systems.

We also lunched at the remarkable town of El Rocio, which boasted sandy streets, a stable at every house, a shrine and a rather patchy set of cafes and bars.

It was a long and fun day out, which Phil loved (obviously) and the still sickly Julie endured stoically.

Day 7 – Thursday

A Grand Tour sort of a day, where we rode bikes and walked all day, starting from the Setas and taking in the big Feria flea market (endless tat and some very interesting people), then headed over the river to explored Triana. We saw rowers and paddlers on the river, visited the Triana market again and enjoyed a drink in the Faena River Club. We also picked up some the widely-advertised “nun biscuits”, via a rotating wooden contraption which enabled the nun on duty ro speak with us without being seen. The biscuits were very sweet and unexceptional.

Our last night was spent at the Carboneria bar and watched the first Flamenco performance of the evening. We spent a time talking to two Dutch women before the show began, comparing experiences of Seville and chatting happily for half and hour or so, over beer. The show itself was very intense, with an all-male trio of singer, guitarist and dancer. A large, noisy crowd enjoyed the show immensely – thought the performers got a bit grumpy with the noise and hubbub.

Day 8 – Friday

A planned trip to nearby Carmona fell through when we waited at the wrong bus stop. Undaunted we headed back out on the bikes and on foot and took in some of the sights of Seville that we had missed, including taking a our round the city’s famous bullring and its rather macabre museum, complete with bulls’ heads. The stadium was circular, with rows of seats – somewhat Colosseum-like – and a bright orange main arena.

We also visited the city’s gallery of modern art, across the river, in a former factory.

A series of cafes-stops killed a bit of time and allowed us some well-deserved relaxation, before a taxi ride back to the airport and a slightly delayed flight home.