DAY 1

Travel isn’t always exciting, especially when it’s largely car-based. And so our first day proved.

An uneventful run up the M6 was followed by a very wet run through the borders up to Glasgow. We then headed west along the south side of the River Clyde to Gourock, our ferry port for the short hop to Dunoon.

A combination of heavy rain, urban landscapes and a lack of views made it something of a slog.

Once on the ferry, the weather brightened somewhat and the mountains of the Cowal Peninsula appeared ahead of us, semi-shrouded in cloud.

A quick supermarket stop in Dunoon allowed us some early impressions of the town. It’s a slightly faded resort with a stylish seafront and grittier centre.

A 20 minute drive along the coast road north took us to our AirBnb in the shoreside village of Blairmore.

Chris and Frances arrived soon after us and we all settled in with a big spagbol and a bit of red wine.

We ended the day with a dusk walk along the shore to Strone the examine the closed pub, closed road to the golf club, a dilapidated bus shelter and a lovely sunset.

DAY 2

A morning bike ride to Ardentinny, five miles up the coast took an unexpected turn when we encountered the Argyll Rally coming the other way.

A mix of current and historic cars burbled along the road, travelling between timed stages. We made our way home, pulling over occasionally to let the cars go by.

We enjoyed a coffee at the local Blairmore cafe before popping back home for lunch.

Afternoon was spent at the Benmore Botanical Gardens, exploring a big hillside of plants.

A highlight of the gardens was the giant sequoia and Redwood trees which form a long avenue away from the visitor centre. Higher on the hill there were lots of other trees and a building dedicated to ferns, known as a Fernery. We enjoyed the walk and the extensive views from the viewpoint at the top of the hill.

Although only babies compared with the American forefathers, the giant redwoods are already approaching 200 feet in height and are impressively straight and uniform.

We then headed for home where Frances and Chris cooked an excellent fish pie whilst we watched the motor rally make their second run along the loch side by our accommodation.

In the evening we made the short walk up the hillside to the local golf club and stood in amazement looking at the precipitous slopes to which the course clung. We might have to look elsewhere for our golfing fix this week.

DAY 3 – Inverary

For day three of the holiday, we took a trip to Inverary, which is about 30 miles from Blairmore. 

First stop was Bail’ Ach’ an Droighinn, better known as Auchindrain Township, a survivor of the infamous Highland Clearances which saw thousands of Scots scattered worldwide as sheep farming led to the forced eviction of vast numbers of subsistence farmers. 

It’s a site which had been home to subsistence farmers and crofters from as far back as the Iron Age and which is largely unchanged since the 17th Century- the last remaining Highland Township of its type anywhere in the world.

When the last family’s left only a few decades go the site was preserved and now every building is a snapshot of a lost lifestyle. 

For me perhaps most striking thing was the way the people shared their homes with their animals. Most Homes had three rooms, two for the human inhabitants and one slightly downhill (to direct “waste” away from human habitation). 

We then headed into Inverary and walked a stiff little climb up the hill behind the town to a folly/lookout point. From there we could look down on the town and along most of the length of Loch Fyne. We were joined at the top by a large Scottish family with shrieking kids and loud music. But they were friendly and just having fun. 

Back in Inverary, we had an excellent ice cream before heading for home. 

DAY 4 – Dunoon

A quieter day starting with an abortive attempt to play golf on a precipitous course above Innellan, just down the coast. Neither of us was in the mood and damp and gloomy weather helped to persuade us to return home via Dunoon.

We’d not had high hopes for Dunoon, but it barely even lived up to our worst expectations. It was drab, run down and largely closed. A decent bookshop and the vibrant Morrisons was the best it could offer.

We finished the day with a bike ride. Julie turned back at Ardentinny, but Phil continued over a steep pass to Loch Eck, before returning by the same route. The cycling was excellent along very quiet roads and rescued an otherwise mundane day.

DAY 5 – Bute

A day trip to Bute came via a drive of some 30 miles and a very short ferry ride. Once in the island we split, with Chris, Frances and Julie exploring the magnificent house and gardens of Mount Stewart, whilst Phil did a 5 mile walk/run around the coast from the village of Kilchattan Bay.

Phil’s “walk” took in great views of Arran and all points of the compass. It also proved extremely hot and sweaty, ending up with an emergency stop at Killchattan’s shop for drinks and crisps.

It also produced lots of birdlife, with Wheatears, Whitethroats and Sedge-Warblers amongst them.

We ended the day with excellent fish and chips in the Coilet inn, on the shore of Loch Eck.

DAY 6 – Various locations

Julie and Phil took a bike ride up Glen Massan, with Phil going on over Glen Tarsan before re-uniting at The Shore cafe in Strone for a coffee.

Afternoon was spent in Dunoon, which redeemed itself somewhat through the excellent Castle Museum, full of local history on the Clyde Steamers, the Lamont Clan and Dunoon itself: a classic old-fashioned municipal museum packed with interest.

A drink at the Boathouse cafe and another Morrisons visit concluded a hot and sunny day.

DAY 7 – Cycling & History

We started our final day with a bike ride along Loch Long to the point where it meets Loch Goil. It was hot, hilly and not especially good for views. The gravel fire roads were rough in places. But it was good exercise.

In the afternoon we visited the church at Kilmun, where a volunteer historian gave us a detailed talk and tour of the church, the attached Campbell mausoleum and filled us in on the inter-clan feud with the Lamonts.

The church featured some excellent stained glass and a striking sculpture by Louisa, Duchess of Argyll and daughter of Queen Victoria.

We spent our final evening enjoying an evening meal at a quirky restaurant in Ardentinny; the quirks included having a very limited soft drinks range, no wine list and no decaf coffee or tea. But the setting, right on the loch, with gannets diving for fish in the background, helped paper over the cracks!

The day also featured the stirring sight of the paddle steamer Waverley cruising past our house.

Airbnb Review

Thornlea was a beautifully restored home on the seafront in the village of Blairemore. It was immaculate and had every comfort. Highlights included lots of striking and locally themed artwork and a living room which overlooked Loch Long directly across from the mouth of the river Clyde. That view alone lifter the place several notches. Probably an 8 or 9 out of 10 if we’re scoring the place!

Day 1: Friday 27 February 2026

Flight from Manchester to Seville with Ryanair. We arrived mid-evening and got a bus into the city (20 minutes), before walking a couple of blocks to our AirBnb apartment. We ended the day with Tapas at the El Nino Del Flore bar, literally just around the corner from where we were staying. Although we didn’t plan it that way, we effectively ordered battered fish (and prawns) and chips. Plus a reviving glass of the local beer.

Day 2: Saturday

We began by exploring the local area, up to the Setas (known by the locals as the Mushroom) attraction, winding our way down narrow streets and getting our first real taste of the city, which was still largely asleep. We picked up breakfast and other provisions from the local MAS supermarket.

We then activated our Sevici cycle accounts and picked up bikes from the local rack and rode down to the Cathedral/Alcazar area, stopping to watch an impromptu flamenco performance in a small park on the way. Also in the park was a man playing the piano!) We then walked around the main tourist centre of the city and came across a number of brass bands assembling for, what we learned later, was Andalucia day celebrations. We admired the players who were all smartly attired in their uniforms. We had a snacky lunch by the river/Triana Bridge.

We returned the the apartment for a proper lunch and our host messaged up to say that there was a major Andalucía Day parade passing close by in a little while. We joined the throngs watching this colourful re-enactment of King Alfonso’s journey through Seville with his bride, Isabella. Lots of people in historical dress, with music and drumming.

We ended the afternoon with a beer at a small cafe close to the Setas and decided to stay for something to eat as well.

Day 3 Sunday

We began the day by riding bikes to the Macarena gate, a decorated arch in the northern city wall, next to a very impressive church (Basílica de la Macarena), which was filling up ahead of the morning service.

We then walked to the nearby Torre (Tower) de los Perdigones, which was originally part of a factory.

A cycle through the city took us to the art gallery, the Museo de Belles Artes. Outside was an extensive and mpressive art market, all produced by local artists. A walk round the museum itself followed, with a superb exhibition of Spanish art, especially from the 17th Century. Much of the art was by Murillo, and Zuberan, with many other artists also on show. Subjects were religious, military, important figures and Seville itself. The museum building was equally impressive.

A trip over the Triana bridge took us to the Triana Market, which was actually largely closed, so we ate a picnic of food we’d brought with us, before adjourning to a local cafe – La tarta de la Madre Chris – which provided us with a cheesecake, coconut cake and freshly squeezed orange juice. We laughed at the cafe name!

Phil then went for a run along the river and encountered Seville fans travelling in to the football stadium ahead of a match – lots of green and white outfits and scooters honking their horns.

Julie had a walk round to scope out the flamenco shows and book us into the Museo de Flamenco for a mid-evening show.

We walked to the show, stopping for beer at the bar La Bodega, then went on to the nearby Catalina restaurant in the Alfalfa plaza. We had various tapas dishes including tortilla. Nearly all the foodie places here seem to combine cafe, bar and restaurant!

The flamenco show was an hour and an intense experience. We were seated right next to the stage and were able to watch the singing, guitar playing and the dancing at very close quarters. The sound – and the volume – was incredible, with castanets thrown in for good measure. Three dancers – one man and two women – were accompanied by two singers who also clapped and shouted Hole at intervals and a guitar player.

Day 4 – Monday

A trip to the Alcazar (we had pre booked 10.30am tickets) by took up the morning, exploring this extensive range of buildings and gardens, in relatively hot conditions. It was busy and there was a huge amount to take in, particularly the moorish decorations.

After lunch we returned to the main tourist area for a walk around the huge Plaza de Espania, a monumental park and crescent of buildings built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.

Day 5 – Tuesday

The Setas (parasol) was our first stop of the morning. It’s hard to describe this unique “monument” made from wood and totally dominating one of Seville’s biggest squares. We travelled up in a lift and explored the walkways that wind around its upper reaches. The views all around were magnificent, especially of the cahtedral and the nearby suspension bridge. Seville has very few high-rise buildings, which results in splendid views.

We then wandered north into the Feria district, which is full of smaller shops, cafes and interesting alleys. Unfortunately lunch – hummus and ham on bread – disagreed with Julie who returned to our apartment to recover. Phil popped out for another cycle to the river and run along the banks. A quiet evening in ensued.

Day 6 – Wednesday

We travelled out of the city for a day exploring the Donana National Park with a 4×4 tour run by a company called Naturanda. We were guided by the knowledgeable Ramon and joined on the trip by Ron, an elderly chap from Canada, a young Polish woman and two young women from the USA.

Highlights included seeing white storks nesting, a wild boar family, purple magpies, glossy ibis. we explored a range of habitats, including wetlands, forest and dune systems.

We also lunched at the remarkable town of El Rocio, which boasted sandy streets, a stable for horses at every house, a shrine and a rather patchy set of cafes and bars. We also saw a horse and rider drinking coffee at a railing alongside a bar while mounted. The rider dressed a bit like an Argentinian gaucho!

It was a long and fun day out, which Phil loved (obviously) and the still sickly Julie endured stoically.

Day 7 – Thursday

A Grand Tour sort of a day, where we rode bikes and walked all day, starting from the Setas and taking in the big Feria flea market (endless tat and some very interesting people), then headed over the river to explored Triana. We saw rowers and paddlers on the river, visited the Triana market again and enjoyed a drink in the Faena River Club. We also picked up some of the widely-advertised “nun biscuits”, via a rotating wooden contraption which enabled the nun on duty ro speak with us without being seen. The biscuits were not really biscuits at all, being very sweet and sticky!

Our last night was spent at the Carboneria bar where we watched the first Flamenco performance of the evening. We were first to arrive and sat at a communal bench talking to two Dutch women before the show began, comparing experiences of Seville and chatting happily for half an hour or so, over beer. The show itself was again very intense, with an all-male trio of singer, guitarist and dancer. A large, noisy crowd enjoyed the show immensely – though the performers got a bit grumpy with the noise and hubbub.

Day 8 – Friday

We woke to rain and much cooler temperatures. A planned trip to nearby Carmona fell through when we waited at the wrong bus stop. With the rain stopping, we headed back out on the bikes and on foot and took in some of the sights of Seville that we had missed, including taking a tour round the city’s famous bullring and its rather macabre museum, complete with bulls’ heads. The stadium was circular, with rows of seats – somewhat Colosseum-like – and a bright orange main arena.

We also visited the city’s gallery of modern art, across the river, in a former factory. Not as impressive though housing a nice cafe.

A series of cafes-stops back in central Seville killed a bit of time and allowed us some well-deserved relaxation, before a taxi ride back to the airport and a slightly delayed flight home.

Today was my final day in France with my parents. It was sad reaching the end of the holiday but I’m glad I experienced bike packing for the first time.

We rose early for an 8:20am departure from Saumur and I headed for Tours alone and then onto the Eurostar.

It was quite strange returning to France last week, as I had been living there over the winter, so I wasn’t sure if it would feel like an exciting place anymore.

However, the Loire valley is very different to the South East of France. It feels closed off in its own medieval universe of chateaux, wine festivals and caves. (We also found a lot of chateaux bore the name ‘clos’ which means closed-off, we think).

Another challenge was carrying a panier and hiring a bike. My boss lent me his panier which I stuffed with a very limited selection of clothes and lugged across Paris. In Saumur, I brushed up on my vocabulary (a panier = une sacoche) and tried the only small bike left in the shop. It was a step-through Giant, quite heavy but efficient. I knew not to complain when Dad was carrying two heavy paniers, but initially I found it a tricky adaptation.

Cycling along the Loire Valley was the perfect way to unwind and destress after a busy few months in London. As you cycle along your mind is engaged by the vineyards, other cyclists, staying on the right side of the road, and I quickly felt myself relaxing into the holiday.

I had my usual battles with French people. Often they recognise I’m English and try to speak to me in my native tongue. I stubbornly respond in broken French and they continue in faulty English. Neither one will give way. Mostly it’s good practice anyway, but I got cross at one shopkeeper who belligerently addressed me in English in an attempt to sell me circus tickets. On the whole, however, the French are very charming and they have a good sense of humour.

Some of the best memories I have of the last week are of small triumphs we had in trying situations. We arrived at the Air BnB in Villandry very hungry on Wednesday night. With no Carrefour local for miles and no car to cover the distance, Dad and I had to raid a tiny village over the hill for milk, bread and cheese. Surprisingly Boulangeries stock milk!

Perhaps my favourite place we visited was L’Atelier, a little bar in Amboise that had multicoloured chairs, cheerful and quirky French staff who spoke English with cockney accents, and a close up view of the chateau. Mum and I also had fun trying Pastis for the first time.

My Eurostar train is approaching le tunnel so I will sign off. I hope more cycling adventures are to come!