Day 1: Friday 27 February 2026
Flight from Manchester to Seville with Ryanair. We arrived mid-evening and got a bus into the city (20 minutes), before walking a couple of blocks to our AirBnb apartment. We ended the day with Tapas at the El Nino Del Flore bar, literally just around the corner from where we were staying. Although we didn’t plan it that way, we effectively ordered battered fish (and prawns) and chips. Plus a reviving glass of the local beer.
Day 2: Saturday
We began by exploring the local area, up to the Setas (known by the locals as the Mushroom) attraction, winding our way down narrow streets and getting our first real taste of the city, which was still largely asleep. We picked up breakfast and other provisions from the local MAS supermarket.
We then activated our Sevici cycle accounts and picked up bikes from the local rack and rode down to the Cathedral/Alcazar area, stopping to watch an impromptu flamenco performance in a small park on the way. Also in the park was a man playing the piano!) We then walked around the main tourist centre of the city and came across a number of brass bands assembling for, what we learned later, was Andalucia day celebrations. We admired the players who were all smartly attired in their uniforms. We had a snacky lunch by the river/Triana Bridge.
We returned the the apartment for a proper lunch and our host messaged up to say that there was a major Andalucía Day parade passing close by in a little while. We joined the throngs watching this colourful re-enactment of King Alfonso’s journey through Seville with his bride, Isabella. Lots of people in historical dress, with music and drumming.
We ended the afternoon with a beer at a small cafe close to the Setas and decided to stay for something to eat as well.
Day 3 Sunday
We began the day by riding bikes to the Macarena gate, a decorated arch in the northern city wall, next to a very impressive church (Basílica de la Macarena), which was filling up ahead of the morning service.
We then walked to the nearby Torre (Tower) de los Perdigones, which was originally part of a factory.
A cycle through the city took us to the art gallery, the Museo de Belles Artes. Outside was an extensive and mpressive art market, all produced by local artists. A walk round the museum itself followed, with a superb exhibition of Spanish art, especially from the 17th Century. Much of the art was by Murillo, and Zuberan, with many other artists also on show. Subjects were religious, military, important figures and Seville itself. The museum building was equally impressive.
A trip over the Triana bridge took us to the Triana Market, which was actually largely closed, so we ate a picnic of food we’d brought with us, before adjourning to a local cafe – La tarta de la Madre Chris – which provided us with a cheesecake, coconut cake and freshly squeezed orange juice. We laughed at the cafe name!
Phil then went for a run along the river and encountered Seville fans travelling in to the football stadium ahead of a match – lots of green and white outfits and scooters honking their horns.
Julie had a walk round to scope out the flamenco shows and book us into the Museo de Flamenco for a mid-evening show.
We walked to the show, stopping for beer at the bar La Bodega, then went on to the nearby Catalina restaurant in the Alfalfa plaza. We had various tapas dishes including tortilla. Nearly all the foodie places here seem to combine cafe, bar and restaurant!
The flamenco show was an hour and an intense experience. We were seated right next to the stage and were able to watch the singing, guitar playing and the dancing at very close quarters. The sound – and the volume – was incredible, with castanets thrown in for good measure. Three dancers – one man and two women – were accompanied by two singers who also clapped and shouted Hole at intervals and a guitar player.
Day 4 – Monday
A trip to the Alcazar (we had pre booked 10.30am tickets) by took up the morning, exploring this extensive range of buildings and gardens, in relatively hot conditions. It was busy and there was a huge amount to take in, particularly the moorish decorations.
After lunch we returned to the main tourist area for a walk around the huge Plaza de Espania, a monumental park and crescent of buildings built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.
Day 5 – Tuesday
The Setas (parasol) was our first stop of the morning. It’s hard to describe this unique “monument” made from wood and totally dominating one of Seville’s biggest squares. We travelled up in a lift and explored the walkways that wind around its upper reaches. The views all around were magnificent, especially of the cahtedral and the nearby suspension bridge. Seville has very few high-rise buildings, which results in splendid views.
We then wandered north into the Feria district, which is full of smaller shops, cafes and interesting alleys. Unfortunately lunch – hummus and ham on bread – disagreed with Julie who returned to our apartment to recover. Phil popped out for another cycle to the river and run along the banks. A quiet evening in ensued.
Day 6 – Wednesday
We travelled out of the city for a day exploring the Donana National Park with a 4×4 tour run by a company called Naturanda. We were guided by the knowledgeable Ramon and joined on the trip by Ron, an elderly chap from Canada, a young Polish woman and two young women from the USA.
Highlights included seeing white storks nesting, a wild boar family, purple magpies, glossy ibis. we explored a range of habitats, including wetlands, forest and dune systems.
We also lunched at the remarkable town of El Rocio, which boasted sandy streets, a stable for horses at every house, a shrine and a rather patchy set of cafes and bars. We also saw a horse and rider drinking coffee at a railing alongside a bar while mounted. The rider dressed a bit like an Argentinian gaucho!
It was a long and fun day out, which Phil loved (obviously) and the still sickly Julie endured stoically.
Day 7 – Thursday
A Grand Tour sort of a day, where we rode bikes and walked all day, starting from the Setas and taking in the big Feria flea market (endless tat and some very interesting people), then headed over the river to explored Triana. We saw rowers and paddlers on the river, visited the Triana market again and enjoyed a drink in the Faena River Club. We also picked up some of the widely-advertised “nun biscuits”, via a rotating wooden contraption which enabled the nun on duty ro speak with us without being seen. The biscuits were not really biscuits at all, being very sweet and sticky!
Our last night was spent at the Carboneria bar where we watched the first Flamenco performance of the evening. We were first to arrive and sat at a communal bench talking to two Dutch women before the show began, comparing experiences of Seville and chatting happily for half an hour or so, over beer. The show itself was again very intense, with an all-male trio of singer, guitarist and dancer. A large, noisy crowd enjoyed the show immensely – though the performers got a bit grumpy with the noise and hubbub.
Day 8 – Friday
We woke to rain and much cooler temperatures. A planned trip to nearby Carmona fell through when we waited at the wrong bus stop. With the rain stopping, we headed back out on the bikes and on foot and took in some of the sights of Seville that we had missed, including taking a tour round the city’s famous bullring and its rather macabre museum, complete with bulls’ heads. The stadium was circular, with rows of seats – somewhat Colosseum-like – and a bright orange main arena.
We also visited the city’s gallery of modern art, across the river, in a former factory. Not as impressive though housing a nice cafe.
A series of cafes-stops back in central Seville killed a bit of time and allowed us some well-deserved relaxation, before a taxi ride back to the airport and a slightly delayed flight home.
Up with the lark 