A morning in bustling Vienne brought a selection of delights.
Our AirBnb was a very smart second floor apartment a mile south of the town centre.
When we ventured out, we cycled in to the town and explored some remarkable Roman remains, including the Plain de l’Aiguille, a relic of the hippodrome, a huge semi-circular Gallo-Roman, open air theatre which seated 10,000 and has recently been re-born as the home of a major jazz festival and the Temple of Augustus and Livia.
All were nestled into a very French town which seemed almost indifferent to their presence.
For example, the temple is very well preserved, yet is flanked by municipal car parks and a typical selection of cafes, restaurants and bars, outside which the locals ate, drank and smoked with some enthusiasm.
We were button-holed by an Australian couple who slightly over-shared their experiences of a lengthy tour of Europe – their main take-away being that if your flight is 36 hours, you need to make your holiday extend to one day for every hour in the air.
It took considerable skill from Julie to extricate ourselves from their company.
A brief bird-watching highlight in the town was an hour or so of aerobatics from a large number of Alpine Swifts: close cousins of our own swifts, but considerably larger and with white bellies. I’d heard them overhead but they were initially too high to identify. The Merlin app correctly identified them, but then announced that they were “unlikely for Vienne”. As they began to swoop lower, visual i.d. became possible. Perhaps they were migrating, for suddenly they were gone.
As for today’s cycling, we hopped on a train to slightly shorten the ride, by 30 miles or so along the Rhone to Tournon-sur-Rhone.
We began through industrial areas which put me in mind of Brighouse. But, once beside the river we enjoyed a superb ride on well-maintained and smooth tracks, offering good views of the river and its traffic of river cruisers and cargo barges.
The scenery is very distinctive, with steep hills on both sides, many clad in vineyards. Small towns and villages dot the route. But there’s also the constant presence of road and rail traffic, with these modes of transport interweaving, much as they do in the Calder Valley back home, but on a somewhat larger scale.
There were other cyclists on the route, though somewhat less numerous than on the Loire (last year’s adventure). They were largely split into two camps: young (ish) gravel riders with state-of-the-art bike luggage (frame bags, bar bags and huge over-stuffed tail/saddle bags), Rapha kit and bikes in muted creams, greens and blues; and e-bike tourists with traditional panniers and leisure clothing reflecting an age range that was distinctly post-retirement.
We stopped en route for a picnic lunch of supermarket quiches, salami, crisps and tomatoes.
A later stop for a cold Orangina helped mitigate temperatures north of 30 degrees. But a brisk tailwind also helped both push us along and keep our body temperatures under control.
Eventually we rolled into Tournon-sur-Rhone in late afternoon and soon found our Airbnb, another spacious and pristine apartment.
A local supermarket enabled us to put together a home-cooked risotto, washed down with beer. A relaxed end to a long and hot day.
Plain de l’AiguilleAnother Roman site dedicated to CybilleThe awesome Roman theatre … somewhat hidden by the modern stage. Roman temple – generally to be viewed through cigarette smoke from the municipal car parkVienneLunchRhone crossings are generally graceful suspension bridgesGreat pathsCold drinks on a hot dayEntering Tournon-sur-RhoneThe route
Our second cycle touring holiday in France, following last year’s exploration of the Loire.
A different approach this time – our holiday began with a train journey from Wakefield to Avignon – leaving home at 7am and arriving in the South of France at a little after 8pm. Olivia joined us at London St Pancras.
LNER to Kings Cross. Eurostar to Lille. TGV to Avignon.
A small city centre flat was our first night’s accommodation. A bit noisy and with some rather eccentric details, including a crude plywood door and a see-through glass sink. Not to mention a toilet door that didn’t shut.
Our first day in France began with breakfast in the local market (coffee, juice, pastries and omelettes). Then on to the local bike shop to pick up our bikes.
This year’s holiday plan was based on making the trip deep into France in a single day. The payoff being the we couldn’t bring our own bikes. So we hired three Trek hybrids from South Spirit cycles in Avignon.
Happily these are decent bikes with hydraulic disc brakes, single chainrings and huge range cassettes. First impressions are that they loose little in comparison to our own gravel bikes. They are also equipped with quality panniers, lights and locks.
Julie and Olivia brought their own saddles which Mattieu, the shop owner, was happy to fit.
We had originally planned to ride up the Rhone towards Lyon. But Mattieu recommended we get a train up to Vienne (just South of Lyon) and ride back (South) with the prevailing wind at our backs. Plus a gentle loss of height into the bargain.
We couldn’t find a train with spaces for bikes until late afternoon, so we spent most of our first day cycling on the nearby island, and then cruising the fascinating backstreets of Avignon, stopping for coffees and ice creams.
This also gave us chance to tweak the bikes’ setup and get used to details, such as the reversed brake levers (front on the left and back on the right).
A 5.26pm train took us North to Vienne for 7.30.
Our second night will be spent in a modern apartment a mile out of the town.
All that remained at the end of the day was to scoot back into the centre of Vienne for an evening meal of chicken and duck.
LilleAvignon on a Sunday morningBy the Rhone ready to test the bikesOutside the supermarketOn the Rhone cycle way for the first time. RehydrationCobbles in AvignonAvignon viewpointCoffee and ice cream
Travel isn’t always exciting, especially when it’s largely car-based. And so our first day proved.
An uneventful run up the M6 was followed by a very wet run through the borders up to Glasgow. We then headed west along the south side of the River Clyde to Gourock, our ferry port for the short hop to Dunoon.
A combination of heavy rain, urban landscapes and a lack of views made it something of a slog.
Once on the ferry, the weather brightened somewhat and the mountains of the Cowal Peninsula appeared ahead of us, semi-shrouded in cloud.
A quick supermarket stop in Dunoon allowed us some early impressions of the town. It’s a slightly faded resort with a stylish seafront and grittier centre.
A 20 minute drive along the coast road north took us to our AirBnb in the shoreside village of Blairmore.
Chris and Frances arrived soon after us and we all settled in with a big spagbol and a bit of red wine.
We ended the day with a dusk walk along the shore to Strone the examine the closed pub, closed road to the golf club, a dilapidated bus shelter and a lovely sunset.
DAY 2
A morning bike ride to Ardentinny, five miles up the coast took an unexpected turn when we encountered the Argyll Rally coming the other way.
A mix of current and historic cars burbled along the road, travelling between timed stages. We made our way home, pulling over occasionally to let the cars go by.
We enjoyed a coffee at the local Blairmore cafe before popping back home for lunch.
Afternoon was spent at the Benmore Botanical Gardens, exploring a big hillside of plants.
A highlight of the gardens was the giant sequoia and Redwood trees which form a long avenue away from the visitor centre. Higher on the hill there were lots of other trees and a building dedicated to ferns, known as a Fernery. We enjoyed the walk and the extensive views from the viewpoint at the top of the hill.
Although only babies compared with the American forefathers, the giant redwoods are already approaching 200 feet in height and are impressively straight and uniform.
We then headed for home where Frances and Chris cooked an excellent fish pie whilst we watched the motor rally make their second run along the loch side by our accommodation.
In the evening we made the short walk up the hillside to the local golf club and stood in amazement looking at the precipitous slopes to which the course clung. We might have to look elsewhere for our golfing fix this week.
DAY 3 – Inverary
For day three of the holiday, we took a trip to Inverary, which is about 30 miles from Blairmore.
First stop was Bail’ Ach’ an Droighinn, better known as Auchindrain Township, a survivor of the infamous Highland Clearances which saw thousands of Scots scattered worldwide as sheep farming led to the forced eviction of vast numbers of subsistence farmers.
It’s a site which had been home to subsistence farmers and crofters from as far back as the Iron Age and which is largely unchanged since the 17th Century- the last remaining Highland Township of its type anywhere in the world.
When the last family’s left only a few decades go the site was preserved and now every building is a snapshot of a lost lifestyle.
For me perhaps most striking thing was the way the people shared their homes with their animals. Most Homes had three rooms, two for the human inhabitants and one slightly downhill (to direct “waste” away from human habitation).
We then headed into Inverary and walked a stiff little climb up the hill behind the town to a folly/lookout point. From there we could look down on the town and along most of the length of Loch Fyne. We were joined at the top by a large Scottish family with shrieking kids and loud music. But they were friendly and just having fun.
Back in Inverary, we had an excellent ice cream before heading for home.
DAY 4 – Dunoon
A quieter day starting with an abortive attempt to play golf on a precipitous course above Innellan, just down the coast. Neither of us was in the mood and damp and gloomy weather helped to persuade us to return home via Dunoon.
We’d not had high hopes for Dunoon, but it barely even lived up to our worst expectations. It was drab, run down and largely closed. A decent bookshop and the vibrant Morrisons was the best it could offer.
We finished the day with a bike ride. Julie turned back at Ardentinny, but Phil continued over a steep pass to Loch Eck, before returning by the same route. The cycling was excellent along very quiet roads and rescued an otherwise mundane day.
DAY 5 – Bute
A day trip to Bute came via a drive of some 30 miles and a very short ferry ride. Once in the island we split, with Chris, Frances and Julie exploring the magnificent house and gardens of Mount Stewart, whilst Phil did a 5 mile walk/run around the coast from the village of Kilchattan Bay.
Phil’s “walk” took in great views of Arran and all points of the compass. It also proved extremely hot and sweaty, ending up with an emergency stop at Killchattan’s shop for drinks and crisps.
It also produced lots of birdlife, with Wheatears, Whitethroats and Sedge-Warblers amongst them.
We ended the day with excellent fish and chips in the Coilet inn, on the shore of Loch Eck.
DAY 6 – Various locations
Julie and Phil took a bike ride up Glen Massan, with Phil going on over Glen Tarsan before re-uniting at The Shore cafe in Strone for a coffee.
Afternoon was spent in Dunoon, which redeemed itself somewhat through the excellent Castle Museum, full of local history on the Clyde Steamers, the Lamont Clan and Dunoon itself: a classic old-fashioned municipal museum packed with interest.
A drink at the Boathouse cafe and another Morrisons visit concluded a hot and sunny day.
DAY 7 – Cycling & History
We started our final day with a bike ride along Loch Long to the point where it meets Loch Goil. It was hot, hilly and not especially good for views. The gravel fire roads were rough in places. But it was good exercise.
In the afternoon we visited the church at Kilmun, where a volunteer historian gave us a detailed talk and tour of the church, the attached Campbell mausoleum and filled us in on the inter-clan feud with the Lamonts.
The church featured some excellent stained glass and a striking sculpture by Louisa, Duchess of Argyll and daughter of Queen Victoria.
We spent our final evening enjoying an evening meal at a quirky restaurant in Ardentinny; the quirks included having a very limited soft drinks range, no wine list and no decaf coffee or tea. But the setting, right on the loch, with gannets diving for fish in the background, helped paper over the cracks!
The day also featured the stirring sight of the paddle steamer Waverley cruising past our house.
Waverley
Airbnb Review
Thornlea was a beautifully restored home on the seafront in the village of Blairemore. It was immaculate and had every comfort. Highlights included lots of striking and locally themed artwork and a living room which overlooked Loch Long directly across from the mouth of the river Clyde. That view alone lifter the place several notches. Probably an 8 or 9 out of 10 if we’re scoring the place!
Flight from Manchester to Seville with Ryanair. We arrived mid-evening and got a bus into the city (20 minutes), before walking a couple of blocks to our AirBnb apartment. We ended the day with Tapas at the El Nino Del Flore bar, literally just around the corner from where we were staying. Although we didn’t plan it that way, we effectively ordered battered fish (and prawns) and chips. Plus a reviving glass of the local beer.
Day 2: Saturday
We began by exploring the local area, up to the Setas (known by the locals as the Mushroom) attraction, winding our way down narrow streets and getting our first real taste of the city, which was still largely asleep. We picked up breakfast and other provisions from the local MAS supermarket.
We then activated our Sevici cycle accounts and picked up bikes from the local rack and rode down to the Cathedral/Alcazar area, stopping to watch an impromptu flamenco performance in a small park on the way. Also in the park was a man playing the piano!) We then walked around the main tourist centre of the city and came across a number of brass bands assembling for, what we learned later, was Andalucia day celebrations. We admired the players who were all smartly attired in their uniforms. We had a snacky lunch by the river/Triana Bridge.
We returned the the apartment for a proper lunch and our host messaged up to say that there was a major Andalucía Day parade passing close by in a little while. We joined the throngs watching this colourful re-enactment of King Alfonso’s journey through Seville with his bride, Isabella. Lots of people in historical dress, with music and drumming.
We ended the afternoon with a beer at a small cafe close to the Setas and decided to stay for something to eat as well.
Day 3 Sunday
We began the day by riding bikes to the Macarena gate, a decorated arch in the northern city wall, next to a very impressive church (Basílica de la Macarena), which was filling up ahead of the morning service.
We then walked to the nearby Torre (Tower) de los Perdigones, which was originally part of a factory.
A cycle through the city took us to the art gallery, the Museo de Belles Artes. Outside was an extensive and mpressive art market, all produced by local artists. A walk round the museum itself followed, with a superb exhibition of Spanish art, especially from the 17th Century. Much of the art was by Murillo, and Zuberan, with many other artists also on show. Subjects were religious, military, important figures and Seville itself. The museum building was equally impressive.
A trip over the Triana bridge took us to the Triana Market, which was actually largely closed, so we ate a picnic of food we’d brought with us, before adjourning to a local cafe – La tarta de la Madre Chris – which provided us with a cheesecake, coconut cake and freshly squeezed orange juice. We laughed at the cafe name!
Phil then went for a run along the river and encountered Seville fans travelling in to the football stadium ahead of a match – lots of green and white outfits and scooters honking their horns.
Julie had a walk round to scope out the flamenco shows and book us into the Museo de Flamenco for a mid-evening show.
We walked to the show, stopping for beer at the bar La Bodega, then went on to the nearby Catalina restaurant in the Alfalfa plaza. We had various tapas dishes including tortilla. Nearly all the foodie places here seem to combine cafe, bar and restaurant!
The flamenco show was an hour and an intense experience. We were seated right next to the stage and were able to watch the singing, guitar playing and the dancing at very close quarters. The sound – and the volume – was incredible, with castanets thrown in for good measure. Three dancers – one man and two women – were accompanied by two singers who also clapped and shouted Hole at intervals and a guitar player.
Day 4 – Monday
A trip to the Alcazar (we had pre booked 10.30am tickets) by took up the morning, exploring this extensive range of buildings and gardens, in relatively hot conditions. It was busy and there was a huge amount to take in, particularly the moorish decorations.
After lunch we returned to the main tourist area for a walk around the huge Plaza de Espania, a monumental park and crescent of buildings built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.
Day 5 – Tuesday
The Setas (parasol) was our first stop of the morning. It’s hard to describe this unique “monument” made from wood and totally dominating one of Seville’s biggest squares. We travelled up in a lift and explored the walkways that wind around its upper reaches. The views all around were magnificent, especially of the cahtedral and the nearby suspension bridge. Seville has very few high-rise buildings, which results in splendid views.
We then wandered north into the Feria district, which is full of smaller shops, cafes and interesting alleys. Unfortunately lunch – hummus and ham on bread – disagreed with Julie who returned to our apartment to recover. Phil popped out for another cycle to the river and run along the banks. A quiet evening in ensued.
Day 6 – Wednesday
We travelled out of the city for a day exploring the Donana National Park with a 4×4 tour run by a company called Naturanda. We were guided by the knowledgeable Ramon and joined on the trip by Ron, an elderly chap from Canada, a young Polish woman and two young women from the USA.
Highlights included seeing white storks nesting, a wild boar family, purple magpies, glossy ibis. we explored a range of habitats, including wetlands, forest and dune systems.
We also lunched at the remarkable town of El Rocio, which boasted sandy streets, a stable for horses at every house, a shrine and a rather patchy set of cafes and bars. We also saw a horse and rider drinking coffee at a railing alongside a bar while mounted. The rider dressed a bit like an Argentinian gaucho!
It was a long and fun day out, which Phil loved (obviously) and the still sickly Julie endured stoically.
Day 7 – Thursday
A Grand Tour sort of a day, where we rode bikes and walked all day, starting from the Setas and taking in the big Feria flea market (endless tat and some very interesting people), then headed over the river to explored Triana. We saw rowers and paddlers on the river, visited the Triana market again and enjoyed a drink in the Faena River Club. We also picked up some of the widely-advertised “nun biscuits”, via a rotating wooden contraption which enabled the nun on duty ro speak with us without being seen. The biscuits were not really biscuits at all, being very sweet and sticky!
Our last night was spent at the Carboneria bar where we watched the first Flamenco performance of the evening. We were first to arrive and sat at a communal bench talking to two Dutch women before the show began, comparing experiences of Seville and chatting happily for half an hour or so, over beer. The show itself was again very intense, with an all-male trio of singer, guitarist and dancer. A large, noisy crowd enjoyed the show immensely – though the performers got a bit grumpy with the noise and hubbub.
Day 8 – Friday
We woke to rain and much cooler temperatures. A planned trip to nearby Carmona fell through when we waited at the wrong bus stop. With the rain stopping, we headed back out on the bikes and on foot and took in some of the sights of Seville that we had missed, including taking a tour round the city’s famous bullring and its rather macabre museum, complete with bulls’ heads. The stadium was circular, with rows of seats – somewhat Colosseum-like – and a bright orange main arena.
We also visited the city’s gallery of modern art, across the river, in a former factory. Not as impressive though housing a nice cafe.
A series of cafes-stops back in central Seville killed a bit of time and allowed us some well-deserved relaxation, before a taxi ride back to the airport and a slightly delayed flight home.
We completed “weather bingo” today: after the wet one, the windy one and the dull one, we had the sunny one.
Snowdonia was crisp, sharp edged and in perfect focus as we left the wooded valleys of Betws-y-Coed behind. The day began on tarmac but off road sections lay ahead.
Capel Curig, oft quoted as one of the wettest places in the UK, was breezy, sun-bathed and surrounded by peaks, cliffs and ridges as we picked up the slate trail northwards.
Highlights of this section included crystal clear views of Tryfan followed by Llyn Ogwen, choppy but very blue.
A plunge down the valley towards Bethesda was on a tiny tarmac road that ran parallel to the busy A5, but on the other side of the valley.
A quick lunch at Zipworld broke the day nicely and was actually our first proper lunch break of the four days: weather and lack of opportunities in empty landscapes blocking previous intent.
From Zipworld we headed down to the coast before turning inland once again for the final climb of the Traws Eryri. It was a monster of some 1300 feet, initially on small roads inland of the village of Llanfairfechan.
It then became a long, grassy slog up onto a hill called Moelfre. We posed for shots at the top before a varied descent into Conway: taking in more grassy tracks, earthy and rocky singletrack and finally minor roads which led up to the official finish close to Conway castle.
Out of Betws-y-Coed Capel Curig looking towards Snowdon Heading towards Llyn Ogwen on the Lon Las Ogwen trailBridge dwarfed by TryfanLooking down the Nant Ffrancon valley Lunch at ZipworldOn the way up the final climbHigh upHigh point of the day – on Moelfre
A long day in the saddle. The plus points included some great views, particularly in the first half as we ascended out of Llan Ffestiniog onto the moorland above Penmachno. The weather was also a massive improvement on the first two days with a few spells of misty rain, but otherwise bright, chilly and breezy at worst.
The negatives were centred on some pretty monotonous and gratuitous fire road stretches through Penmachno and in the final approach to Betws-y-Coed. Heavy, soft gravel roads, endless identical conifers and the knowledge that we were making little progress in our intended direction compounded by the awareness that we were also close to some excellent singletrack trails.
You only have to study the map of our route above to appreciate the strangeness of that second half of the day.
Of course it’s actually quite hard to complain about a day of mountain biking in the beautiful part of the world. The autumnal colours were really kicking in with bracken on the higher hillsides and golds and browns in the valley woodlands.
A fair selection of autumn fungi also added colour and the occasional laugh (see photo below).
As with the two previous days, we saw virtually nobody away from the start and finish locations. There’s a size and desolation to some of the landscapes that might deter walkers and even on a bicycle progress can feel slow.
Tomorrow we head to Conway, via some of Snowdonia’s tourist hotspots. We might actually find a cafe for lunch, too. So far we’ve had to be pretty much self sufficient for food and water. A mid-ride stop sounds like paradise, in comparison.
Ad-hoc breakfast in the corridor outside our hotel roomsHeading up out of Llan Ffestiniog Rharadr – y-Cwn waterfalls and gorgePenmachno – a great mountain bike location but not much fun if you are restricted to the fire roadsCompensatory views Tree downGate opening support was strong again – thank you Dave and Richard Nice bit of trail above Pont-y-PantMore soft gravel … more grumblingAll the rivers are in spateFungal frolicking Bridge over turbulent waters
Storm Amy battered Dolgellau overnight and redoubled its efforts through the morning, with arguably higher wind speeds and greater volume of rain than the day before. Plus the temperature dropped markedly.
Our B and B politely but firmly ushered us off the premises at 10am. We had discussed our options the night before and we soon decided that the only sane choice was to stay put in the town and await the forecast improvement in conditions early in the afternoon.
We hung around cafes and a small craft fair for three hours before, jittery with caffeine overdosing, finally setting off just after one, with the rain, at least, having eased up.
We opted for a slight adjustment to our route, riding straight up the valley to Coed-y-Brenin mountain bike centre, rather than a higher approach over the hills.
From there we climbed up the old Sarn Helen Roman road. This was awash, but also steep, rocky and distinctly technical in places. It also opened up amazing views on all sides, including the jagged Rhinog mountains to the West, and the high peaks of Snowdonia to the North.
As the non-e-bike representatives, John and I performed a valuable duty, checking the depth of “puddles” (never has a word seemed so inadequate) we encountered with some frequency, on behalf of our electrically assisted companions. Apparently water and electricity don’t mix. John and I were happier to be referred to as “puddle gineau pigs” than “dipsticks”, the alternative that was also doing the rounds. Wet feet have been a feature of the ride to date.
In return, Dave, Liz and Richard covered most of the gate opening duties. As with day 1, this was a ride of many gates, mostly modern and easy to open, but with occasional antique exceptions which gave way to cyclists with varying degrees of reluctance.
Liz also shouldered the burdens of chief photographer and dispenser of fig rolls and apples, our emergency rations.
The route took us on a memorable lap of Trawsfynydd reservoir. This wildly varied section included a couple of violent and wetting squalls; a delightful herd of upland horses; some unexpectedly fun slate singletrack; a massive hydroelectric dam and the two enormous concrete buildings which housed the nuclear power station (now being decommissioned) for which the area is well known.
The closing few miles were back on the Sarn Helen “road” through muddy fields, past the remains of a Roman fort, before a tarmac diversion to our overnight hotel in Llan Festiniog. We finished the day in sunlight, tired but happy that we’d avoided the stormy conditions of the morning and survived a surprising tough day of riding.
Sarn Helen – probably not resurfaced since Roman timesHigh above Coed-y-Brenin looking across to the Rhinog mountains Chipper The road to Trawsfynydd reservoir The dam wall Beside the reservoir Power from the pastSheltering from a squall behind a wallSarn Helen after the reservoir Sarn HelenRough going above Trawsfynydd Phil eating a biscuit on the move, following JohnJulie visited Barmouth but didn’t paddle
On paper, this, our first day of four in Snowdonia (Eryri), was a relatively straightforward mountain bike ride. Over fifty percent on small roads and with only one long climb, it should have been a routine, but very scenic day on the bike.
But Storm Amy intervened and it turned into one of the wettest days on a bike I have ever experienced. Views were fleeting and often scanned through eyes screwed up against the elements. Roads were carpeted in wind-blown acorns (like ball bearings), conkers (shiny pebbles) and fruit like apples and crabapples.
The mountain bridleways were running like rivers, frequently hub deep, whilst a whipping gale blew in random gusts and pushed and pulled us from all angles.
The drive down to the start at Machynlleth in central Wales was dry until the last half hour through the hills. From then onwards it rained almost incessantly and at times torrentially for the rest of the day.
Ready for the off
We met John, Liz, Dave and Richard at the railway station in Machynlleth and, after re-assembling our bikes (all ferried down in our van), we headed out into the rain.
Minor roads took us some 15 miles to Abergynolwyn, where we met Julie (who is our support van driver) for coffee and cake at the village hall cafe. The owner mopped around us as we dripped steadily as we ate.
A few more miles (passing the famous Bird Rock on the way) saw us at the foot of the day’s main climb, up over the shoulder of Cadair Idris. Tarmac surfaces and a stiff tailwind hastened us up the 400 metre hill.
Approaching Bird Rock
At the top the road became a cart track and after a weather beaten run over the top, we descended on a shattered wreck of a road, running like a river in places and rocky, rutted and rough throughout.
A river runs through it
A precipitous tarmac road then fed us the final couple of miles to the valley floor and a five mile (tailwind blown) ride up the Mawddach estuary on a gravel former railway line.
On the estuary
35 miles took us to the door of our overnight stop, a B and B in Dolgellau.
The day was saved by the benign temperatures, which meant that, although soaked, we never got too cold. The gale was also more often than not behind us. And we were not delayed by punctures or mechanicals.
In fact, we all enjoyed most of it: the scenery was still stunning; the water and cloud made for some great light effects; and we navigated effectively by using whichever device was currently not struggling with a wet screen, lack of a signal or rapidly discharging battery.
The e-bikers kindly opened and closed most of the gates and held back on the climbs. The human-powered riders probably kept a little warmer.
Julie did a great job of supporting us, whilst slipping in a couple of bonus cafe stops and a fish finger sandwich lunch that clearly hit the spot!
Tomorrow…. let’s hope the rain, at least, abates !
A day of train journeys and a couple of shortish bike rides, returning to the ferry port for tomorrow’s return sailing to the UK.
The commute across Nantes in the rush hour was surprisingly fun, with our route taking us through the quiet backstreets of the suburb of San Sebastián and then along the bike lanes of the city centre.
There were plenty of other cyclists on the road which helped considerably with navigating the more complex junctions – just drop in behind a local and follow their line. It worked like a treat and the 3 mile ride took little more than a quarter of an hour.
Once again, Komoot did the planning and directions faultlessly.
Nantes commute – bikes rule when it comes to speed and convenience Outside the station
We’d booked the train journey to Caen a couple of days in advance. On paper it looked complicated, with changes at Sablé-sur-Sarthe and Le Mans, especially as the first change only allowed 5 minutes to swap trains.
However, the Le Mans train was waiting for us on the very next platform as we pulled into Sablé bang on time, so we swapped trains in seconds.
Bike hanging
On most of the trains we’ve used this holiday there has been a dedicated space for our bikes. A couple have seen bikes stacked in the isle, but no-one has been refused access to a train with a bike and rail staff seem to have a very flexible approach to bikes and scooters in general.
For today’s journey we had to book spaces for our bikes on the first two trains (a bit of a faff as booking bikes is on a separate website to passenger bookings). But it was just one euro per bike per booking.
The third train had no bike booking requirement but there were still plenty of spaces for bikes.
Hanging the bikes from hooks is an excellent space saving method, though it’s not easy to hang a heavy bike from a hook 6 feet from the floor. We always removed panniers before loading the bikes in this way.
Returning to today’s trip, we covered about 180 miles by train (a similar distance to Leeds to London) in an about 5 and a half hours, which included a lay-over of almost an hour in Le Mans. The trains were all clean (including toilets), we had seats throughout and every one was on time.
It was relatively stress free (once we’d made that first connection) and gave us time to eat, read and even grab a power nap. Married to the cycle commute into Nantes and a steady 10 miles on the bike track from Caen to the ferry port, we did the door-to-door journey of around 200 miles in about seven hours, in total. It cost €99 for our two tickets, plus the £4 for the bike spaces.
More bike hanging We made the most of our Le Mans lay-over with a predictably good coffee and snackBack at Ouistreham in time for a walk to the beech and a browse in the local shops
Tomorrow we have an early start and a 2km ride to the ferry.
Bird report: a hobby just outside Caen was a surprise highlight of the day. It drifted over the river ahead of us and out over the adjacent marshes. A little time later a sparrowhawk passed overhead accompanied by a flock of mocking starlings.
Airbnb review: last night we booked what looked like a slightly old-fashioned apartment in the outskirts of Nantes. There was nothing eye catching and bike-friendly in the city (most were top floor apartments with no safe bike storage options), so we picked a slightly dull looking place.
It turns out that Airbnb photos can be deceptive and the apartment was spacious, quiet and very well equipped. We were even able to bring the bikes inside for the night. Bruno, our host, gave us a very detailed induction on the microwave and oven, charmingly pointed out a number of other details we didn’t need to know and then departed into the upstairs half of the house, which was a completely separate unit. We enjoyed a quiet evening and a good night’s sleep in complete comfort. Sadly I forgot to get a photo.
Julie: our host Nicole met us as we prepared to leave at 8.30am. She spoke no English but saluted our ‘Bon courage’ and waved us goodbye.
It was a cold, crisp morning and despite coinciding with rush hour traffic The cycle ride into Nantes was great fun and the train journeys surprisingly relaxed now we are well versed in loading our bikes on board and finding the right platform!
The ride from Caen to Ouistreham was into a strong, cold headwind and proved tougher than expected. I envied the cyclists heading for Caen with a strong tailwind!
At Ouistreham we returned to our first Airbnb, a cosy and quirky space close to the centre and explored this attractive seaside resort. Crepes and hot chocolate at a seafront cafe, a browse in a few shops. Food buying at the local supermarket and back for our final evening in France!
